Walk into any aesthetic clinic and you will encounter a wall of filler brand names: Juvederm, Restylane, Sculptra, Radiesse, and many others. For most patients, these names are interchangeable — just "fillers." But to the clinicians selecting them, each product represents a distinct material, mechanism, and set of clinical applications. Choosing the wrong filler for a given goal or anatomy can produce results that look unnatural, resolve too quickly, or — in rare cases — cause complications.
This guide explains the main categories of dermal fillers, what they are best used for, and how a skilled injector thinks about product selection. Our goal is to give you the knowledge to have an informed conversation with your physician — not to turn you into an injector yourself.
The Main Filler Categories
Hyaluronic Acid (HA) Fillers
Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance found in skin and connective tissue. HA fillers — the most commonly used category worldwide — are synthesised versions of this molecule, cross-linked to varying degrees to achieve different textures and longevity. Softer, lower-density HA gels are used in delicate areas like the under-eyes and lips. Firmer, higher-density formulations are used to create structural support in areas like the cheeks and jawline.
The key advantage of HA fillers is reversibility. An enzyme called hyaluronidase can dissolve them if needed — which makes them an excellent choice for first-time patients, or for areas where precision and the ability to adjust is paramount. They also naturally attract and retain water, contributing to a hydrated, plump appearance in treated areas.
Calcium Hydroxylapatite (CaHA)
Calcium hydroxylapatite — sold under the brand name Radiesse — consists of calcium-based microspheres suspended in a gel carrier. Once injected, the gel provides immediate volumising effect while the microspheres stimulate the body's own collagen production over several months. As the gel carrier gradually absorbs, the newly generated collagen remains to maintain the result.
CaHA fillers are typically firmer than HA gels, making them well-suited for areas that require deeper, more structural support — the cheeks, temples, chin, and jawline. They are less appropriate for superficial or delicate areas. Unlike HA fillers, CaHA cannot be dissolved, which means placement precision and correct patient selection are critical.
Poly-L-Lactic Acid (PLLA)
Poly-L-lactic acid — the primary ingredient in Sculptra — is a collagen biostimulator rather than a traditional volumiser. Rather than adding volume directly, it triggers a gradual inflammatory response that prompts the skin to produce new collagen over weeks to months. The result is a slow, progressive improvement in skin thickness, quality, and overall volume — often described as looking like you have aged in reverse rather than "had something done."
PLLA requires patience. Most patients require a series of two to four sessions spaced several weeks apart, and final results may not be fully apparent until three to six months after the last treatment. However, the results can last two years or more, and the progressive nature of the improvement makes it virtually undetectable. PLLA is particularly well-suited to patients with significant volume loss across larger areas of the face, or those who prefer an approach that avoids any visible transition.
Areas Treated and What to Expect
Lips
The lips are one of the most requested filler areas — and one of the most technically demanding. Soft, low-viscosity HA gels are the standard of care here, as they integrate naturally with lip tissue and can be precisely placed to add volume, define the border, or improve symmetry. The goal at Aurelia is always proportion: enhancing the lips in a way that complements rather than dominates the rest of the face. Results typically last six to twelve months.
Cheeks and Midface
Volume loss in the midface is one of the earliest and most impactful signs of facial aging. Restoring cheek projection and lifting the midface can address hollowing, improve the appearance of nasolabial folds, and create a more youthful facial silhouette — all without surgery. Firmer HA fillers or CaHA are typically used here, placed deep against the bone for structural support.
Under-Eyes (Tear Troughs)
The under-eye area is among the highest-risk zones for filler treatment and requires exceptional technique and product selection. Soft, hydrophilic HA fillers placed conservatively can dramatically reduce hollowing and reduce the appearance of dark circles caused by shadowing. Overfilling or using the wrong product in this area can result in the Tyndall effect — a bluish discoloration caused by light scattering through superficially placed filler. Not every patient is a candidate; sometimes treatment of the adjacent areas is a safer, equally effective approach.
Jawline and Chin
Filler along the jawline can sharpen definition, reduce jowling, and create a more structured lower-face profile. Chin augmentation with filler can add projection and improve facial proportions, often as an alternative to surgical chin implants. Firmer products are typically used in both areas, placed deep against the periosteum.
The right filler is never just about the product — it is about the architecture of your face, your skin quality, the degree of volume loss, and your timeline for results. What works beautifully in one patient may be entirely wrong for another.
Am I a Good Candidate?
Most healthy adults are candidates for some form of dermal filler treatment. However, certain factors affect both candidacy and product selection:
- Skin laxity: Fillers replace volume but do not tighten skin. Patients with significant laxity may achieve better results from a combination approach that includes energy-based treatments.
- Prior filler history: Knowing what product was previously used — and when — is important for safety and planning. Undissolved HA filler can interact with new product, and certain combinations create risk.
- Medical history: Autoimmune conditions, bleeding disorders, and certain medications (including blood thinners and aspirin) may affect candidacy or require timing adjustments.
- Pregnancy and breastfeeding: Elective cosmetic filler treatment is not recommended during pregnancy or while breastfeeding.
Why Injector Expertise Is the Most Important Variable
Product quality matters, but injector expertise matters more. The same syringe of filler, in the hands of an experienced physician versus an inadequately trained injector, can produce dramatically different outcomes. Deep anatomical knowledge — understanding where critical blood vessels run, how tissue planes behave, and how products move within them — is what separates a result that looks natural and lasts well from one that migrates, over-projects, or worse, causes a vascular occlusion.
At Aurelia, all filler treatments are performed by board-certified physicians with specialised training in facial anatomy and injection technique. We use a conservative, staged approach: it is always easier to add than to remove, and a slightly conservative first treatment that looks perfect is far preferable to an overcorrected one that needs to be adjusted.
Your consultation is the right time to ask your physician which product they intend to use, why, and what the plan is if you would like to adjust the result. Any clinician worth their training will welcome those questions.